Entering Norfolk harbor is absolutely nuts. There are enormous battleships, container ships, tugs, sailboats, power boats, yikes you name it. Then, there is the question of where are we going anyhow? Basically, left (port if coming from the Chesapeake and heading toward the ICW). You get in to what we now know is the largest natural harbor in the world, and all you see are destroyers, aircraft carriers, e-bloody-normous boats of all types. After you pass through a militarized marvel for about 20 minutes you get to the container shipyards (Norfolk International) and it's cranes the size of the Empire State Building and still you have not gotten to the place yet. That place, mile marker zero or Red 36, featured in a previous entry, was our home for a few days. Norfolk was big and glossy. Portsmouth aging gracefully. But then, jumping off into the ICW requires a trip down the Elizabeth River passing more enormous ships (see photo three), lift bridges, swing bridges, and one completely inconsequential lock until you arrive at Great Bridge, VA. There are a number of bridges surrounding Great Bridge and one associated lock. We entered the lock along with our cohort of boats, and slung long dock lines around the bollards. We knew the lock would lift or lower us no more than 5 feet. This is child's play. Wayne settled in to read for a while and I decided this was the moment to re-do my toenails. Some time later, the lock operator sauntered out and mentioned to the nearest other boat, "girls...they are always doing their toenails." I looked up, and shortly afterward the southbound lock gate was opening. I said, "Hey Wayne! They are opening!" He was as astonished as I was that the whole procedure had taken place while we were not looking. OK, after the Erie Canal's Waterford Flight of Five with locks of 40+ feet, this was nothing. Ask my daughter Sarah. She'll tell you. It was WORK going through the Flight of Five. I was filing my toenails and we were locking through without even knowing. Everything in perspective. OK, so it was cool tying up in Great Bridge. All the free tie-ups on the west wall were taken, so we actually tied up to some trees on the east wall. You can buy anything you could possibly want in Great Bridge, it is so commercial. We did find an awesome sports bar where we watched the Red Sox on one screen and Michigan ( Go Blue!) beat Illinois on another screen. I even beat Wayne in a game of pool fair and square that night. These things must be recorded for posterity and a legitimate record. So, Great Bridge is a fun stop where you can tie up for free, but then it is out into the ditch. Soon afterward, you arrive in the thick of the swamp, where the fourth misty pictures of boats navigating the perils of a lift bridge in the cool morning air is taken. That was this morning as we were headed to Coinjock, NC. Yes, the 1st picture is Wayne at the helm in the swamp. We were unable to take the Dismal Swamp route due to lack of water, so we took the "Virginia Cut' instead. Sufficiently swampy for anyone's taste. We crossed the Curritick Sound at the end of the day to arrive here at one of 2 marinas that comprise the entire town situated on the east and west sides of this tiny canal and were amazed to tap into fast and furious wireless. Will wonders never cease? Tomorrow we will cross the Abermarle Sound heading toward Belhaven, NC and the true confederacy. Stay tuned...more adventures are sure to occur on this most unusual of highways.
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