Thursday, October 18, 2007

Mobjack to Norfolk, beyond our expectations




The sail from The Great Wicomico brought us once more out into the wide, lower portion of the Chesapeake Bay. It is SO unlike the upper portion which is narrow enough to see across at most times. The lower portion is much more like one of our Great Lakes, and we were able to not only actually SAIL some without the motor, we were able to use the autohelm. The tremendous advantage to this is that you can keep reading while sailing! Of course someone has to keep a lookout for other boats, buouys, and the ever-present possibility of running aground. Compared to our more eventful sails in the upper bay, this was a piece of cake. We selected Mobjack Bay so as not to have too long a day sailing to Norfolk, and selected an anchorage up the East River quite randomly. It was not so extraordinary when we dropped the hook - still a little rough and no particular "destination" but we were done sailing for the day and it was time to stop. Little did we realize what a majical place it would turn into! Sunset was spectacular as the picture above will readily show. We enjoyed our quiet dinner with the most dramatic backdrop of orange, red, and golden splendor. The next morning we arose to a mist-laden scene with cloud-like layers swirling about the trees and houses and mirror-still water reflecting the entire scene back at us. WOW! It was about the most beautiful morning "exit" we had experienced in all of our Chesapeake sailing days. That was until our enchanted fairy-tale like journey down the glassy, mist-laden East River was eclipsed by the school of dolphins that came to visit as soon as we entered Mobjack Bay proper. The boat slid into the bay just as the dolphins were jumping and playing at the mouth of the East River. They came over to see us and swam with us for just a little while. We tried to capture them, but digital cameras don't seem to have the type of instantaneous shutter action that "regular" ones do, so what we managed to capture was the scene above where a few fins might be visible given a good imagination and faith. Believe us, sailing with a friendly school of dolphins was the highlight of the day/week/month and a great omen for the rest of the trip. When we finally got over our excitement about our dolphin escort, we got about the task of sailing to Norfolk. Holy wah. Norfolk is the largest naval facility in the world, and it sure looks like it. As you enter the harbor, you can see aircraft carriers, battleships, cruisers, destroyers, and even a huge hospital ship. It just goes on like this until you reach the "Norfolk International Terminal" which has several great piers servicing enormous container ships. The cranes and machinery surrounding the piers are frightening in their size and reach. This goes on for a while more, and you realize you have been in the harbor for more than a half hour and still not "there". "There" is mile zero of the IntraCoastal Waterway or ICW. "There" is known also as "Red 36" or "Hospital Point". After nearly an hour of crawling up the harbor at 6mph (walking speed) we finally arrived at the famous Hospital Point anchorage where the boat is now. Norfolk is home also to the Naval History Museum, and the battleship Wisconsin, both of which deserve to be toured. Norfolk is sleek, urban, and upscale. The waterfront has been overtaken with fancy hotels and condo developments, and within a short walk there is a monsterous mall, anchored by Nordstroms. No, we have not been there yet. In fact, we are now in Portsmouth, Virginina which is just across the Elizabeth River from Norfolk. Portsmouth has a much more accessible and charming Olde Towne district, but is much more blue collar and heterogeneous. We are amassing as much information as possible prior to taking off from "mile zero" including the hurricane predictions from the NOAA and the updated charts from the Tidewater Marina. Both Norfolk and Portsmouth have public libraries within easy walking distance, but the Norfolk library is observably more affluent. The charming little restaurants in Portsmouth have a greater interest for us, as well as the friendly folks at the Tidewater Marina. For $12 we were able to use their dinghy dock, their laundry room, their internet, take showers (a real luxury after lots of days at anchor) and come and go as we please. The gal in their store was so friendly and helpful, we barely could believe it! So we will remain for a few days in this historic place where the great battle of the "Ironclads" took place during the Civil War. We are in Confederate territory now, having passed the demarcation line about mid-harbor. Imagine that - a couple of Yoopers entering the real South. So far, so good. The real test will be the 4 lift-bridges and Deep Creek Lock which we must navigate in order to complete the next phase, "The Dismal Swamp".

1 comment:

Lisa said...

I can see some fins! That must have been quite inspiring to see. As you are sailing South and getting warmer, here we are pulling the last remaining boats out of the lake. Thanks to you we will continue to enjoy, vicariously, sailing through the winter months. (What's behind Mobjack?)