Friday, July 20, 2007

Sault Ste. Marie to Port Huron: friends, foul weather and flying over the water

We have arrived in Port Huron but not without significant stories to tell on the way...let's start with the departure from Sault Ste. Marie and trip down the St. Marys River. We had studied charts for the river somewhat but did not have any of our own, so on a very cold, misty morning we left the Soo (finally!) and navigated buoy to buoy until we reached our destination of the day - DeTour Village. The municipal marina was a welcome sight, and we pulled in to a slip and went off in search of Chad Norton. We found him easily at his home and coffee/ice cream shop "The Garage". It had been his wife Rene's birthday the night previous, and she and Chad were still in a jovial mood. So despite our good intentions to exercise and garner provisions, we sat under a shady umbrella and chatted until it was dinner time! Not having gotten to the store, we accompanied Chad, Rene and a large contingency of their friends to a fun cafe with unlimited whitefish on the menu and a charming Mexican bartender (from Mexico City no less) named Esther who insisted on making her signature Margheritas for us! Rene is involved in the planning of a singular event in DeTour called "Happy Apple Saturday" which will take place on Saturday, Sept. 15th. Fast Eddie's Blues Band will be playing at the Fog Cutter, Artisans and Crafters will be displaying and selling their creations, the Huron St. B & B is sponsoring "An Evening with Mark Twain" (played by none other than Roger Norton - Chad's Dad!) and the Albany Bar and Restaurant Equestrian Ride will take place with all proceeds to benefit the Children's Cancer Camp. Given the hospitality that Chad and Rene showed us, I could not help but take the opportunity to write about this unique event in a very friendly town. Arriving at the boat later than expected, we went right to sleep in order to get up early and take off for Presque Isle Harbor. Monday 7-16 we awake to a beautiful clear 6am sunrise and a new day leaving Lake Superior and entering Lake Huron. Although still cool, the brilliant sunshine lifts our spirits and unlike the navigational challenge that the St. Marys provided, the exodus from DeTour into Lake Huron looks easy. Dressing warmly all day for a cold crossing, we had the chance to finally shed our layers upon arriving at Presque Isle Harbor around 5pm. There we were greeted by the strains of a lone violinist on a nearby sailboat. We anchor in the bay, explore the surrounding woods briefly, and enjoy a quiet night on the boat. Tuesday 7-17 the sun rose again on a clear, calm day. Warmer! An easier day yet with land in sight at all times. I try out my boat Pilates and find that it is do-able, with the added chanllenge of keeping one's balance aboard a gently rolling boat. We are pleased and slightly amazed to pull into Harrisville around 5pm, earlier than expected. A bit of a challenge as our 25+ year-old charts do not actually reflect some of the changes to the navigation markers, including the removal of the buoy marking the entrance to the harbor. Luckily we have cell phone numbers for all of the harbors up until Port Huron, and receive instructions to "...head for the big white thing." We find the gas dock at the back NE corner of the marina, gas up and anchor out in a marshy mooring pond full of tall water weeds. Unfortunately could not contact our friend Valerie Penglase, but had a lovely beach run and plunge into refreshing Lake Huron. Disappointments of the day; 1. not finding Val and 2. BUGS! The biting flies we thought we had left in the UP returned on the way to Harrisville. It's a cute town but BUG CITY. Be warned. 7-18-07 Wednesday...OMG he is up at 5am! Coffee, oatmeal and on our way by 6am - this is a big day of sailing. Having a natural loathing of the early morning, my only reward was a sight I don't usually see - the sun as a big orange ball rising through coral-tinged clouds in a Robin's Egg blue sky. We get underway uneventfully and I get to go back to bed. By 13:30 (1:30 pm) we are crossing from the right index finger tot he lateral aspect of the thumb of Michigan on a relentlessly foggy day. Can't see a bloody thing. The effect of being fogged in on the crossing of a large lake with no land in sight for hours is slightly eerie to say the least. After about 11 hours on the lake we spot a huge smoke stack. This is the first evidence of land we have seen all day and it is miraculously marking the entrance to the harbour of our destination. We arrive at Harbor Beach and there is a huge anchorage just inside the breakwall. We dinghy in to find a lovely municipal recreation center with clubhouse, pool and cedar-panelled restrooms. This is surrounded by gigantic and very gracious log homes replete with beveled glass window accents and screen porches. We walk around a bit and begin to understand this is not a municipal facility. We have in fact stumbled upon the Harbor Beach Resort Association. Too late - we walk into town acting as if we belong there and after a quick tour of this tiny and quaint town we are back on board Cassie mkaing dinner. I get to talk to both Thomas and Catherine and life is good. Now for the real drama. It deserves a post of it's own.

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