Our stay in Bimini was unexpectedly long due to a lingering high pressure system and continued 25 to 30 knot winds. We again enjoyed the hospitality of Weech's Bimini Dock - an institution since the Hemingway days. To our surprise, the Big Game Club marina was closed due to lack of business. Their loss may have been Weech's gain as there were a half-dozen or so boats at Weech's including one large luxurious sport fisherman. The facilities had been significantly upgraded with the addition of a four-stall, four-shower ladies' room with two washbasins with mirrors as well. This left the older 2-stall, 2-shower ladies room to become the men's room. Finally, it took the Bahamians to figure out gender appropriate bathroom configurations. They are not known for their great support of women's rights. Perhaps this is a model for some of the more astute capitalists to pursue.
Our first foray into the streets of Bimini brought us to the Dolphin House. This house has been entirely constructed from surplus materials by a talented man named Ashley Saunders. He comes from a very old, established Bimini family and explained that when he was young, he was granted a scholarship by the Bahamian Government to study in Wisconsin. He gained a baccalaureate degree in literature at the University of Wisconsin (Madison) and returned as per his scholarship requirements to become a teacher on Bimini. He has written poetry, books, and a two-volume history of Bimini filled with numerous photographs. He also constructed the astounding Dolphin House which is notable for it's mosaic walls both inside and out. I will try to add more photos of the house, and more when possible.
We spoke with Ashley at some length, who among other relatives mentioned his brother Aslin. Aslin is a bone-fishing guide, boat builder, and lay minister. Among his accomplishments are having been the captain of the boat that brought in the world-record bonefish somewhere in the last 25 years or so...it's in Ashley's book. Because we had so much time and were enjoying learning about Bimini, we took the opportunity to walk to Aslin's boat building garage and have a peek at what he was up to.
A small hand-lettered wooden sign attached to a telephone pole marked the dead end street upon which Aslin's boat garage marks the end. As we approached the garage, a very trim, dark, slight, and freshly pressed man came out wearing dark blue slacks, a white polo shirt and a clean, crisp, navy blue baseball cap which read "Obama 2008". It did not take long for him to introduce himself as Aslin Saunders, and to invite us in to see the boat he was currently working upon. Wayne clearly enjoyed discussing the myriad different woods that went into the building of Aslin's special bone-fishing boats, as well as the techniques for hand construction of these marvelously beautiful wooden boats. Much of the wood he used was native to Bimini, but some of it was imported for the particularly important quality that particular species would provide the boat builder and boat. He and Wayne discussed the digging out of a particular tree root and stump in order to carve from it a strong, unified bow among other things as I looked around at the shop in general.
We have remarked again and again how well-loved President Obama is by the Bahamian people. Bumper stickers, t-shirts, baseball caps and even graffiti are greatly in evidence in all of the islands. Aslin had already proudly proclaimed his support of Obama by his baseball cap. Beyond that, however, one could see this is of central importance to him as at the very heart of his shop there is a mini-altar almost upon which stand a framed picture of Barack Obama being looked upon protectively by a small sculpture of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. The story was forthcoming.
Having finished with bone fishing boat-building discussion, Aslin turned his narrative to bone fishing itself. Indeed, his most famous client was the same Dr. Martin Luther King, who came to Bimini for some peaceful bone fishing during several tempestuous times in his life. Aslin proudly recalled Dr. King's arrival just a few days prior to his acceptance of the Nobel Peace Prize, and the joyous and profound conversation they shared in the gloriously alive and colorful world of the reefs of Bimini. Aslin is quite a poet and philosopher himself, and a fervently religious man in the Bahamian Christian manner. He recounted how they discussed the acceptance speech in addition to the broader aspects of the importance of this momentous occasion. The phenomenally beautiful Bimini-blue waters, abundant fishes and thick mangroves seemed a perfect example of God's great creation in peace and harmony. Aslin then remarked upon the fatefull change which he observed in the person of Dr. King upon his last visit to Bimini. Weary with his burdens, tired of the constant fight, and needing to find peace again, Dr. King visited Aslin one last time less than a week before his assasination. He looked as if he had aged a year for each month and had none of the excitement and passion he previously exuded. Aslin had written a psalm and dedicated it to Dr. King and was overjoyed to have this opportunity to recite it to the great man in person. An engaging and passionate orator, Aslin was kind enough to share with us the opening and closing lines of his lengthy psalm in a rapturous manner. The psalm is a celebration of the greatness of creation as seen within the simple magnificence of the abundant life in Bimini. With bittersweetness, Aslin explained that his recitation of the psalm gave some solace to Dr. King, who remarked that well it was he should be healed by this gentle spiritual man when his own faith did not seem enough any more. A remarkable man, a truly good man if there ever was one; Aslin Saunders. Less than a week later, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was dead. Well of course this story moved me to tears and is powerful still in the recounting.
In the simple streets and on the gorgeous beaches of Bimini, a gentle world envelopped us until the wind relented to the point at which we could attempt to cross the Gulf Stream. Only about 50 miles from Miami is another world - a third world place to be sure - where time is slow and easy and history is much richer than meets the eye. We will remember Bimini for so many reasons, including Ashley and Aslin Saunders.
